PRE-TRIP
I'll start by saying I have always wanted to ride the North Cascade Highway, ever since we first drove it five years ago. Laurel's Dad has property in Winthrop and we've made the drive a dozen times. The problem has always been with the two of us we need more gear than will fit on the bike with both of us on it. So, when Laurel announced her plans to hit Portland over the weekend, I saw my chance and went for it!
The trip is 200 miles each way and involves a little of everything, from twisties to wide sweeping curves, straights, valleys, and unfortunately some city driving. When you put it all together it's probably the most scenic 200 miles you'll ever take.
Leg I: Seattle to Arlington
I-5 is, well, I-5. If six lanes of dull freeway excite you, then I-5 is the road for you. I got a late start after getting Laurel on the road and getting to REI for some quick provisions - solo tent and inflatable sleeping mat. Total cost: About $180.00. Good stuff though, I'm glad I got it. Combined with my Ventura pack, I had enough room for at least three days of clothes and material. I could have added the tank bag but didn't see the need. The other pack on there is my sleeping bag. It's a light-weight hiking sack. I hit the road at about 2pm. Everything was cool until I got to Everett and hit a WALL of stopped traffic (welcome to Seattle...). I sat in stop-and-go for about five minutes before a Harley guy went by me on the shoulder and I decided what the hell, I'll do it to. I was thinking of excuses the whole way to avoid the ticket ("but officer, my bike is air-cooled... I can't let it overheat in traffic!") and I escaped without incident. I saved at least an hour of traffic time. By the time I got to Arlington traffic cut down to just about nothing.
Leg II: Arlington to Skagit
Here's where things get interesting. From Arlington all the way to Skagit is small-town farming land. That means, of course, high ticket probability. I know because I got one doing 10 over in a Toyota. (The funny part is that I got another ticket on my bike driving back up to fight the first ticket in court. But, that's another story.) So, although the valley is nice and twisty all the way to the base of the pass, it's best to keep your speed down. The last 15 or 20 miles of Leg II are OK to speed up on, but the roads at that point are mostly straight. The scenery is beautiful - you follow the Saulk river to the Skagit - home of some of the world's best Steelhead and Salmon fishing - under a canapy of ancient trees. There are sweeping hills, fields and farmland every step of the way. I stopped outside of Darrington for gas and took this picture of the mountain, whose name I can't remember. You'll notice lots of snow, even though this is mid July. Let's just say we have not had a really hot summer up to this point...
LEG III: The Pass
Well, the fun starts here. The North Cascades Highway, heading East, is basically a long, twisty road climbing the whole way to the peak and ending in a quick decent into the valley. Along the way you'll hit anything from 15mph (posted) curves to five-mile straights. My bad planning actually worked out for me here. On a late Saturday afternoon most of the tourist traffic is GONE! I had the pass virtually to myself the whole way. Most of the cars I approached got out of my way so I could pass, even on double-yellows.
I won't spoil it too much, but I'll include some pictures. Once again, sorry for the darkness!
LEG IV: Methow Valley
Your decent into the Valley is also great scenery, but also host to some wary police officers and deer. Slow it down a bit and enjoy the valley. Your first opportunity for gas is at Mazama. I recommend getting it here, as the gas station in Winthrop is always a big pain in the ass.
Finish Line: The brewpub at Winthrop! Sit down, have a cool pint of great beer and try to explain to the Harley guys that your Ducati ain't Japanese! If I hadn't mentioned it before, Winthrop is the Harley Capitol of Washington for some reason.
Next time I migh consider looping around through Chelan and Yakima to end the trip, although Chelan is the biggest speed trap I know of. Looks like a promising ride if you keep it slow though.
Follow the red line... from Seattle to Winthrop, you drive North up I-5, heading East 530 at Arlington. Follow 530 to the Hywy 20 internection at Rockport. Then follow Hywy 20 over the pass, ending up at Winthrop.
